By Claire Saffitz
- Total Time
- 1 hour 45 minutes, plus 6 to 26 hours’ resting and proofing
- Rating
- 4(846)
- Notes
- Read community notes
This dough, a hybrid of brioche and Japanese milk bread, bakes into a light, soft loaf with a silky crumb. There are two key steps to the bread’s texture: The first is a tangzhong, or “water roux,” which originated in Japanese baking but was popularized throughout Asia and beyond by the Taiwanese pastry chef Yvonne Chen. The second is a long, slow mix that develops sufficient strength in the dough to support a lofty rise in the oven. Unless you have superhuman strength and patience, a stand mixer is required. The dough is slightly sweet, making it ideal for cinnamon rolls or pistachio morning buns, and suitable for sandwich bread or hamburger buns.
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Ingredients
Yield:2 loaves
- 1cup/240 grams whole milk or buttermilk
- 6tablespoons/50 grams plus 3¾ cups/490 grams all-purpose flour, plus more, if needed, for work surface
- 5large eggs, chilled
- 2tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
- ¼cup/50 grams granulated sugar
- 10grams kosher salt (2¾ teaspoons Diamond Crystal or 1½ teaspoons Morton)
- 2teaspoons/6 grams active dry yeast
- ½cup/113 grams unsalted butter (1 stick), cut into ½-inch pieces, chilled, plus more, at room temperature, for pans
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (14 servings)
267 calories; 11 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 4 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 7 grams protein; 204 milligrams sodium
Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.
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Preparation
Step
1
Make the tangzhong: Combine the milk and 6 tablespoons flour in a medium saucepan and whisk until smooth. Place the saucepan over medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken, about 2 minutes. Continue to whisk vigorously, making sure to scrape along the bottom curve of the saucepan, until the mixture is very thick and looks like smooth mashed potatoes, about 20 seconds longer.
Step
2
Remove saucepan from heat and scrape the tangzhong into the bowl of a stand mixer. Cover the bowl and let the tangzhong sit until it’s room temperature, about the better part of an hour. (A cool tangzhong is crucial to ensuring proper dough development; you can speed it along by chilling the bowl and occasionally uncovering it to stir the tangzhong.)
Step
3
Make the dough: To the bowl of the stand mixer, add 4 eggs (reserve the remaining egg for brushing over the dough), then add the oil, sugar, salt, yeast and remaining 3¾ cups flour. Fit the mixer with the dough hook and mix on low speed until the ingredients come together as a coarsely textured dough, about 3 minutes. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl with a bowl scraper or flexible spatula, then mix on medium-low, scraping down the sides once or twice more, until dough is smooth, firm and very elastic, 12 to 15 minutes. It will have gathered around the hook but still cling to the slides and bottom of the bowl, and have a mostly tacky, not sticky, texture.
Step
See AlsoClassic Biscotti - The Recipe CriticEasy Banana Bread Recipe - Two Peas & Their PodIcelandic Brown Bread Recipe - from Bake.Eat.Repeat.Mixed Berry Granola Muffin Recipe4
Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add half of the chilled butter pieces and mix on low speed until the butter pieces have incorporated into the dough, about 5 minutes. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides again, and add the remaining butter. Mix on low until all the butter is completely incorporated. The dough should no longer stick to the sides of the bowl and will have a very smooth, supple appearance. Increase the speed to medium-low and continue to mix until the dough is extremely elastic, another 10 to 15 minutes.
Step
5
Test the dough: To see if the dough has built sufficient strength and elasticity — which it will need to expand to its maximum volume in the oven — stop the mixer and raise the hook. The weight of the dough will slowly pull it downward off the hook. (A strong dough will stretch the distance to the bottom of the bowl, rather than tear.) You can also do a windowpane test: Pinch off a golf ball-size piece of dough, and use your thumbs to flatten it and work the dough outward into a thin layer. Slowly stretch the dough, until it forms a thin membrane through which light can pass. If it tears before that point, or as it falls from the hook, continue to mix on medium-low and repeat the test every 5 minutes.
Step
6
Let the dough rise: Scrape the dough onto a work surface. (If the dough is a bit sticky, dust it very lightly with flour.) Fold it in half several times to create a smooth, taut surface, then place back inside the stand mixer bowl, smooth-side up. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or an airtight lid and let rise at room temperature for 30 minutes, then transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours and up to 24. (If making hamburger buns or pistachio morning buns, stop here and see recipes.)
Step
7
Prepare the pans: Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the bottom and sides of 2 standard loaf pans with room-temperature butter. Line each pan with parchment paper, leaving an overhang on the two longer sides, then lightly brush the parchment paper with more butter. Set the pans aside.
Step
8
Portion the dough: Remove the dough from the refrigerator and uncover. Scrape the dough from the bowl and place on the work surface. Use the heel of your hand to knock out the gas and deflate the risen dough, which will be quite firm. Using a kitchen scale and a bench scraper or a knife, portion the dough into 16 equal pieces. (Each piece will weigh about 70 grams.) If you don’t have a kitchen scale, you can eyeball it.
Step
9
Form the loaves: Working with one piece of dough at a time, fold it onto itself a few times to create a smooth surface, then gather the edges and pinch them together to form a smooth bundle of dough that looks like a garlic bulb. Place it seam-side down on the work surface and position your hand over the dough, palm barely touching the top and fingers lightly cupping it and resting on the work surface. Drag your hand — and the dough with it — slowly across the surface, moving it in small, rapid circles. The friction between the dough and the surface will help tighten the dome so your loaves rise upward. You shouldn’t need to add flour, since the cold dough is easier to handle and much less sticky, but if your dough is slightly warm or otherwise sticky, add just a bit of flour to make it easier to handle. Continue with all the pieces of dough, then arrange the balls inside the prepared loaf pans, 8 per pan in a 2-by-4 pattern.
Step
10
Proof the loaves: Cover the pans tightly and let sit at room temperature, undisturbed, until the dough has doubled in size and the individual domes appear puffed and balloonlike, 1½ to 2 hours.
Step
11
Meanwhile, arrange an oven rack in the center position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl until no streaks remain, then set aside.
Step
12
Test the loaves: For the softest, airiest bread, the dough must be fully proofed. Test it by uncovering the loaves, lightly oiling your finger, and gently poking the surface. It should feel filled with air, spring back, and hold a slight indentation from your finger. If it doesn’t, cover again and continue to let it rise, repeating the test every 10 or 15 minutes.
Step
13
Apply egg wash and bake the loaves: Brush the surfaces of the proofed loaves generously with the beaten egg and transfer the pans to the oven. Bake side by side, rotating each pan 180 degrees and left to right after 15 minutes, until the surfaces have risen dramatically and are deeply browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool completely in the pans, then cut along the short sides with a paring knife to loosen. Use the parchment paper to lift the loaves out of the pans. Slice with a serrated knife.
Tip
- The bread is best the day it’s baked but will keep, wrapped tightly at room temperature, for up to 5 days. Toast lightly to revive.
Ratings
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out of 5
846
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Cooking Notes
annette
Is it ok to use instant yeast?
Golem18
Check for refurbished Kitchen Aid mixers. I've had great luck with refurbished items which generally carry the same warranty. In some respects they may be better than those on the shelf since they've actually been tested.
Barbara
Lithuanian buns:I used 1/2 of bread recipeAfter refrigerated rise, roll out dough and cut into 4 inch circles. Place heaping tablespoon of bacon filling in middle then gather dough around filling and shape into bun. Let rise 90 min. Egg wash and bake 350 for 25 min. 3/4 # bacon chopped, one chopped onion, 1tsp black pepper. Barely cover with water in skillet. Cook until water evaporates. Pulse filling in food processor 3-4 times. Cool prior to filling bun.
Ilana
For those wondering which size loaf pan to use, I baked one loaf in an 6x10” pan and the other in a 9x5” pan. The 9x5” loaf baked into a more cohesive bread loaf shape, much like the photo in the recipe, with a lovely domed top. The 6x10” loaf was a little squatter and looked more like tear-n-share dinner rolls. I definitely prefer the look of the finished loaf in the 9x5” pan.
Will R.
I have made this four times, three with Active Dry yeast and once with Instant yeast. The three times with the Active Dry yeast, the loaves came our somewhat dense and didn’t rise as I thought it should have. The final time with Instant Yeast was much better. I used 4.5 g of Instant Yeast. To substitute Active Dry Yeast for Instant Yeast, multiply by 0.75. To substitute Instant Yeast for Active Dry Yeast, multiply the by 1.25. (All yeast was new and within expiration date)
Kathy
There are two standard loaf pan sizes, 9 by 5 and 8 by 4. You should specify which size. It makes a difference to the finished loaf.
Josh
Question: After stressing the importance of gluten formation in the main article, I'm wondering why the recipe asks for AP flour instead of bread flour?
Lu
Is a standard loaf pan 8x4 or 9x5?
cook in london
I just watched Saffitz making this dough on YouTube and it looks amazing; I’m sure that bread gives off a heavenly aroma too. May I be so bold to ask if this recipe can be made non-dairy? I imagine that leaving out the butter would change things somewhat but is it possible to get a pretty good dough (as opposed to a fantastic one) leaving out the butter. Looking for helpful responses not snark, please.
Bee Bee
Made this bread today. It was delicious. I actually proofed it in the fridge for 2 days as I didn't have the time to bake it. It still turned out great and there wasn't any of that over-fermented yeasty taste. One thing I might change is to use bread flour instead of all purpose. I find the texture of the original recipe leans more toward a cake texture than a bread texture. I personally prefer a bread flour texture.
Barbara
Used 1/2 of bread recipe. After refrigerated rise, roll dough and cut into 4 inch circles. Add one large TBSP of cooled bacon filling(3/4# chopped bacon, one chopped onion, 1 tsp black pepper barely covered with water and simmered until water evaporates. Pulse a few times in food processor) to circle and enclose filling, shaping into small round bun. Let rise for second time. Apply egg wash and bake for 25 min at 350. Just ate one and it is spot on! Who says you can't go home again? makes 24.
Naomi
What size is a "standard" bread pan? 9"x 5" or 4" x 8"?
Grawp
I am very disappointed. A few weeks ago I made Claire's croissant recipe and it was perfect. So I followed this one perfectly and my bread is massively underproved and dense. I should have known when I pulled it out of the fridge after its overnight prove - it wasn't doubled or even close. After all that time kneading I am very sad about these results.
Barbara
bad yeast?
James Bowring
Made it by hand with 10 minutes kneading after leaving in sponge state for an hour to develop strength, then adding remaining flour and softened butter. Left to rise 2 hours, formed into loaves, rise again, and cook at 400 from cold oven for 25 min. Great recipe!
Kate
Could you freeze half the dough after the first rise to bake later?
Margaretcooks
I made this using the new stand mixer for my birthday and it was so fun and turned out great! I have a 9x5 and an 8x4, so I divided the dough roughly 60/40 and that worked well. I did not use parchment and had no problem with sticking. I also proofed my yeast in the slightly cooled tangzhang; I know she said that proofing was not necessary but since I use active yeast that has the coding, I prefer to air on the safe side with yeast proof.
Ruth T
This bread is delicious. But the instructions are not good!From how the dough will behave in the mixer, to how to judge how much flour to add, to how long to proof and to bake the loaves, if I did not already know something about bread I would have wasted a whole day and lots of ingredients.
Jess
Since I only had one egg, rather than 4, I replaced the other 3 eggs about a 1/3 cup of milk to allow the bread to bind together. Also had to knead the dough by hand. Despite this, bread still turned out AMAZING-soft, chewy and slightly sweet.*Note: If kneading by hand, knead for about 10-15 minutes before adding the cold butter, then again for 5-10. Dust flour on hands/work surface to prevent from sticking (it can get really messy), adding a bit more flour to the dough if necessary.
spencer
In case anyone was wondering yes you can make these by hand! Would definitely recommend a bench or bowl scraper though I couldn’t find mine and did without. Do that initial knead just until it smooths out, and then I did put mine in the fridge for maybe ten minutes to rest. Add the butter a few cubes at a time (though you don’t have to incorporate them fully each time), and then it gets a LOT easier. Passed the window pane test after about ten minutes and the dough was well worth the effort!
Anne
Followed the recipe as closely as possible and ended up with dough that was WAY too overworked. Next time, I'm going to knead by hand to get a better feel. It almost burnt out the motor on my Kitchenmaid anyway. The dough came together much more quickly than the recipe says.Still, I ended up with some very delicious, if very heavy, dinner rolls.
Anna
For the second rise can you leave the buns in the refrigerator overnight?
Suzanne T
I don't understand why a temperature isn't given for the cooled tangzhong. [“Cover the bowl and let the tangzhong sit until it’s room temperature, about the better part of an hour. (A cool tangzhong is crucial to ensuring proper dough development; you can speed it along by chilling the bowl and occasionally uncovering it to stir the tangzhong.)”] How can the yeast activate if the liquid is cool? Besides, room temperature and cool are not the same things. Used this for Pistachio Morning Buns.
Niki
Tried this out with 1/2 the recipe in my bread machine on dough setting. I added the butter 1/2 way thru knead. I followed Claire’s instructions to let it rise 30 min in the bread machine after it was kneaded and then I took it out and shaped it into the bowl for a bulk ferment and followed instructions as normal after. Worked great. I tangzhong-ed in the microwave 1 min, stir, and 30 sec increments. Much faster than stove top and same result.It is a wet dough, but trust the process.
GG
This recipe yields a fantastic light fluffy bread. I took the entire 24 hours for the first proof and my results were great. The recipe is a little labor intensive and crucial is making sure the butter is properly incorporated into the dough. Generally, this is a straightforward recipe.
Anne A
I think my refrigerator is too cold (37 degrees F) for the dough to rise properly. I just took it out after 4 hours of the first rise and it’s hardly risen at all. I think I’ll let it sit at room temp for a while before shaping it and then see how it goes from there. Does anyone know the effect of under proofing the first rise and then doing a regular proof for the second rise?
Zuhairah
Can I use instant yeast and how much my first batch I made my dough never rised at all.the recipe calls for çhilled eggs and butter could the cold eggs have killed the yeast that's y it didn't rise
Lisa L
I made this exactly as written and it turned out perfectly. I did have to mix for about 20 minutes after adding the butter - very important to follow visual cues. I brought it to Easter dinner and it was the best thing on the table. Claire Saffitz is a national treasure.
Tom
I made this dough per the recipe, then used the filing & glaze from Joshua Weissmans Cinnabon Copycat recipe: https://www.joshuaweissman.com/post/cinnabon-cinnamon-rolls-but-betterwith a few small tweaks to the filling, and they came out fanTASTIC!I had been trying to adapt his Cinnabon recipe to include a milk-based tangzhong and I thought I got a pretty good result after several attempts, but of course Claire's recipe outdid my own by miles! Thank you Claire!
Kate B
Followed the recipe as directed and this bread came out perfectly. I often have trouble getting dough to rise enough in my cold and drafty kitchen, but this bread was super airy and light. Definitely making it again!
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